Hungry in Tel Aviv-Syrian Food

On Monday afternoon I had a craving for some authentic Middle Eastern home cooking and since it was close to lunch time (rumbling stomach ) I decided to take a trip to a neighborhood in the center of the city known as Kerem Ha’Teimanim (Yemenite Vineyard).

This established neighborhood is also known as the Yemenite Quarter, since it was one of the first settlements of the Yemenite community in the very early 1900’s. The area itself is reminiscent of a developing Neve Tzedek (see post Best Shopping Experience), but has old fashioned time warped gentleness that is in stark contrast to the lively Carmel market or the bustling Allenby street shopping which neighbor the area.

The restaurant Rachel Be’Kerem is indeed a journey to bygone days. The exterior is unimpressive with large windows exposing the spartan interior. The tables and chairs both outside and in are well worn wooden and simply basic. There are no frills or trappings that entice at all and “vintage tatty” would be a fairly kind description!

However appearances do not deter their clientele. There is always human traffic, locals stopping by for breakfast (humus plus) or sitting down for a satisfying  lunch  or a milling queue for a gratifying family take away.

 

Rachel  Ba’Kerem restaurant was established in 1966 by two brothers Avraham and Joseph Melech and now run by one (hardworking) son Udi, with a sparse staff (equally hardworking ) of two. It is a local institution, serving kosher Syrian home style food, long slow cooked dishes from recipes that have since been forgotten.

The menu is rarely changed, exceptions being the addition of  seasonal meat dishes, such as braised lamb ( eaten out before I arrived..) Everything is cooked on the premises, starting a 5 am each opening day.

White tea plates of  pickled cabbage and hot peppers and, raw onions and sweet peppers together with pita breads are served as nibbles, but are much more meaningful with a dollop of humus accompaniment. The humus is dense in texture, smooth on the tongue , but with a hint of bitterness left on the palette accentuated by the rich green tinged pungent olive oil it is liberally served with.

Succulent chicken legs fully wrapped in sliced aubergine, cooked in savory gravy and served on a huge bed of maharajah rice ( white rice cooked with lentils) or fleshy pieces of Nile Perch ( locally known as Princess of the Nile to make it more appealing) slowly cooked in saffron, spices and garlic, combined with whole humus beans, carrots and tomatoes are just a couple of the warming and hearty plates served for main course.

To wash it all down ( sadly no alcohol for me this lunchtime) I chose a soda drink we call gazoz. A highly coloured, sugary sweet, fizzy concoction made with (artificial) fruit concentrate and soda water. Kind of reminded me of my sweet toothed childhood..

If you prefer all your restaurant experiences to be in a beautifully designed places with posh trimmings this is not for you. If you have an adventurous  spirit, can shutter your eyes but open your taste buds for some delicious Syrian home cooking, then Rachel Ba’Kerem is worth your time.

 4 Malan Street

Opening hours weekdays ( not Friday) 8.00am to 5.00